This post was originally published on this site
Natural Coral in American Indian Jewelry: A Material History
Natural coral has become one of the most recognizable materials in American Indian jewelry. Valued for its rich red hues, smooth finish, and organic origin, coral has played a vital role in Southwestern jewelry design for over a century.
What Is Natural Coral?
Unlike gemstones or minerals, coral used in jewelry is the calcified skeleton of marine invertebrates. The most prized variety—precious coral (Corallium rubrum)—is harvested from the Mediterranean Sea. It is compact, durable, and takes a high polish, making it ideal for fine jewelry. Coral’s natural colors range from deep red and orange to soft pinks, and its branching growth pattern ensures every piece is one of a kind.
Coral’s Introduction to Native Jewelry
Coral is not native to the American Southwest. It entered Native jewelry traditions in the late 19th to early 20th century, when Mediterranean coral was introduced through trade networks by European and American dealers. Southwestern artists soon began incorporating coral into their silverwork.
By the 1920s and 1930s, coral was a widely used material in Native jewelry. Its density made it well-suited for cutting into cabochons, mosaic inlay, and fine beadwork. Coral’s vivid color also complemented turquoise, creating visually striking designs that would become hallmarks of the region’s jewelry tradition.
From Raw to Refined
Transforming coral from a natural form into finished jewelry is a labor-intensive process. Artists begin with raw coral—often in branch or rod form—and use lapidary techniques to shape, cut, and polish it. The result might be a bold cabochon, a row of inlay, or a carefully drilled bead.